What about Cuba?

Waking up to the news Fidel Castro has resigned as President of Cuba ends up leaving me confused. My emotions are flipping through the entire spectrum, to the point I end up shutting down any emotional reaction in order to actually be able to cope with work throughout the day (Also a useful technique on new episode days, because otherwise I wouldn’t get anything done).

Ultimately this should mean good news for Cubans, who will now have a chance to step forward after nearly 60 years of stunted development and backwards communism policies. A new elader, one with a more social approach to current affairs, may allow the small island nation to strive forward, softly, gently, and leave the 50’s behind.

Of course, there’s always the uncertainty which must first come. Who will take over? Whatkind of a leader will they become? Will he continue with Castro’s iron fist leadership or allow the people to start governing themselves? How will the people react? Will they start rebelling against 60 years of communism and demand they rejoin the rest of the world? Or will they sit back, enjoy their wondrous medical tratments and high levels of lieracy and allow the world to continue to pass on by?

It’s with some trepidation I say I hope it doesn’t change. Not too quickly, and not too violently. As a traveller, there are so many amazing places to see in the world, and yet Cuba remains n endangered species. Its life as a 50’s time warp is on its last legs, and this glimpse into a closed off world of broken down cars, laidback Caribbean society and general way of life will vanish. Or will it?

Maybe it will continue; it’s hard to say. You simply cannot predict the future and how people will react to this news. All I can ask is they hold out a little bit logner so I have the opportunity to visit this slice of history before it vanishes forever.

Never turn your back!

People always saw when you least expect it, something amazing will happen.

The same happens with countries. The ones you have least expectations from, surprise you. Cambodia, the land of Pol Pot, landmines, orphans and Angkor Wat, does just that.

It’s a country where a 175km journey takes 7 hours by road, everyone works in US dollars, and you can shoot a gun without a license or ID.

Most people skip Phnom Penh and head straight to Siem Reap, Tourist Central of Cambodia. It’s a pity, because Phnom Penh has so much more to offer the weary traveller.

While expensive hotels straddle the riverfront near the Palace, the cheapest place to look for accommodation is down by the lake.  The guesthouses sit out on the lake on wooden stilts, competing with each other for sunset views and menus. You can find DVD’s, drinks, hammocks, anything to make your stay enjoyable and relaxing. After all, after a long day out at the Killing Fields, all you want to do is lay back, watch the sunset over the lake and sip a cold beer.

After all, nowhere can you see the atrocities committed by Pol Pot’s regime better than the Killing Fields. Just outside of town on a dusty road, lies a large field, bordering a local school. Here lie mass graves, shallow pits really, where the bodies of thousands where buried. Men, women and children were beaten to death, photographed and buried. Tears of clothing and bone fragments litter the ground, making it necessary to watch where you walk. Sobering, particularly the memorial filled with the skulls of the dead. If you can stomach it, the S-21 Museum in town explains the horror in further detail, filled with photographs and video footage of the massacres. It’s hard to ingrain this horror with the people, who are so cheerful and pleasant. And knowing Pol Pot died recently, ensuring he would never pay for his crimes seems too cruel.

In need of a pick-me-up? Grab some fruit, some rice, a few toys and head down to an orphanage. This is where Cambodia’s future lies, in the faces of the children,a nd these kids will brighten your day. They’re all delighted to see people, and constantly run up to you with hugs, kisses and gorgeous little laughs. You can see traditional dances performed by the kids and join in some games or teach them some english words. No matter what you do, you won’t want to turn away and walk out the door. It’s hard to resist their smiling, hopeful faces.

By boat or bus, you can’t miss Siem Reap, the base for Angkor Wat, gem of Cambodia. It’s on the flags, on government buildings, this is the symbol of Cambodia. And it’s truly majestic. Make sure you rise early to capture sunrise at Angkor Wat. Close your eyes and you can just make out the soft chanting of the monks nearby, who come out with cameras to take photos of the tourists.

Guide books recommend you spend 3 days exploring the temples of Angkor. I did them all in 1 day. Exhausting at the end of it, but manageable. Don’t rush if necessary, but don’t take a 3-day pass just because you feel you should. There’s enough time in the day to spend an hour or so at each place. Unlike other historic sites, you’re actually allowed to clamber over the temples. Feel free to climb those unbelievably high steps, peer out through the arched windows, and walk the windowpane to that gorgeous little spot right on the edge of the temple. The place is a maze, surrounded by souvenir sellers and tourists, but there’s always another temple just down the road to escape to. Keep an eye on the monkeys! They love food and won’t hesitate to jump you for that banana snack.

Battambang is a dusty brief stop on the road from Thailand to Phnom Penh.  It’s also a good stop if you’re planning to visit Pailin, home of sapphires and ex Pol-Pot commanders. It’s very poor, where beggars won’t hesitate coming to your table and asking for scraps and drinks while you’re eating. It’s hard to say no, mainly because you can see the desperation in their eyes. The great thing about Battambang is it’s possible to pack up and be in Thailand the same day.

There are so many hidden gems in this country, places off the beaten track. The southern beaches, the unexplored temples in the north,  and the thousands of small towns and villages where people will happily take you in, show you their warmth and courage and leave you standing on the border debating whether you really want to leave.